So let’s talk scales. Nope, not the gritty things on reptiles but the wood or micarta placed on the knife handle. The word handles and scales are used interchangeably and I really don’t know the difference. I just know there probably is one. That is not important, what is important is working the material to fit comfortable in one’s hand. So for the sake of argument I am going to refer to handles as scales. Mainly cause I think it sounds cool. So let’s dive in.
Scales can be made out of various material, the obvious being wood, but it doesn’t stop there. Micarta, plastic, rubber/silicone, para-cord, or even just plain steel are all “acceptable”. Personally, I have only ever used wood. In my opinion it looks the best when done right. I have seen micarta used and it is not bad but, a) I have free wood all around my house, b) I don’t have the time to make it. I’ve only ever seen plastic on cheap throw away knives from places such as the dollar store. Rubber/silicone are more from moldings to my knowledge. I have seen these on some skinning knives but I don’t really care for them. I can never bring myself to use para-cord. I have seen some great work with these, however, I have just poured a weekend into making something that I’m makes me proud. I’m not going to just throw some cord on it and call it done. Which takes me back to wood. Once rough cut, pinned, and glued into place it can be worked to personally fit your hand or nicely rounded for a general fit.
Personally I think wood and micarta is the two best options, siding more towards wood. It does not need to be crazy thick either. I try to keep each scale the same thickness of the blade or possible even smaller, depending on the type of blade you are making. Generally speaking if you are making a drop point hunter style of knife go ahead and make it skinny. When it comes to wood, after ground down and shaped, it can be stained, oiled, lacquered, or a combination of stained and lacquered. Lacquer will give it a plastic feel so I tend to steer clear, but to each their own. From what I have seen micarta is working in much the same way that wood is. I can not speak to great lenghts as I have not worked with this material. There are a multitude of stains that can really bring the grain out and darken or lighten wood depending on the look you’re going for. Again, there are tons of oils but the most common are linseed, mineral, and danish oil. I always use danish oil and I have not been let down yet. Now stains won’t really work on micarta but I have seen people use oils and it does bring out the pattern or detail.
Just a quick example of how I get my wood roughed out. I figure out where the head of the scale is going to stop, usually about an inch or half inch from the plunge line, and trace out using the blade handle laid on top of the scale. this makes it easier to put back in place should it come out of the clamps before I’m ready. Then once traced and clamped up I drill through the pre-drilled handle holes into the wood. This ensures everything is going to line up when I go to put in the pins. Once both sides are traced and drilled out I clamp both scales to the blade and using holding pins I drill all the way through one more time just to be sure everything is a match. Then I’ll take the scales over to my grinder and roughly grind out the shape. I make sure to leave some room just in case. At this point I like to put both scales together using holding pins and a clamp and I go ahead and bring the scale head to finish. I usually just grind it to an angle then sand it to the highest grit I have. Doing this I won’t have to go back later and risk scratching the blade that should be finished at this stage. Once all of that is taken care of go ahead and bust out the epoxy. Make sure you have everything ready to go. Take some sand paper or a nail/screw and scratch up the blade handle a little ensuring the epoxy has something to adhere to. Then starting on one side place glue on one scale then the handle and use the pins to put in proper place. Glue the other scale and other side of the handle then slide that on the pins to properly place and voila! you have a mess. After all this place as many clamps as you can around the scales to ensure every inch is securing to the blade handle but taking care not the tighten too much or you will squeeze all the glue out and have to start all over. Wait 12 to 24 hours, or per package instructions, and you are over halfway done making your knife. Did I say quick? I meant buckle your seat belts cause nothing about knife making is quick. Still here? Well then welcome aboard, we are glad to have you.
So short of the long if you have made your blade and you’re just starting out stick with wood. I have used everything from a 2×4 to actual planed down walnut. Keep it skinny or if you want it thicker make sure it’s not too big for your hand. You can use para-cord if you want but…eww. Play around with stains and oils and see which ones you like best. There really is no wrong answer. When it comes to working the scales buckle down and stay steady. Once on the other side let satisfaction take hold. It’s a great feeling accomplishment.